How much is it to install a wood burning fireplace
These were very popular in the period from as it eliminated the need for a trained mason to build sloping firebox walls. Many of these also have special masonry chimneys made of pumice volcanic rock.
Brand names include Isokern and Firerock as well as many smaller local companies. If you have determined that your fireplace is prefab, your options are quite limited. Many prefab fireplaces are very small and it is difficult to find a unit which will fit…. You are left with the following choices:.
Most economical — buy a fireplace insert that BOTH fits and is approved for use in pre-fab fireplace line chimney to the top with new stainless liner and connect to stove.
Note that in very rare cases, some newer prefab fireplaces may have an HT high temperature, UL chimney and not require a full liner. However, it is the authors recommendation for all existing prefab chimneys to be fully lined. Rip out ENTIRE framing assembly, facing, firebox and chimney and replace with new metal chimney and stove or built-in high efficiency fireplace. In most cases, you cannot take just any old stove and place it in front of or in such a fireplace and pipe it up.
It must be an insert approved for such use. This is because either the chimney in many prefabs is not tested with anything other than the open fireplace and is not as heavy duty. Or, there is wood in the walls a few inches from your fireplace and a stove in front with its connecting pipe will not meet the required clearances. As a practical matter, installing most inserts into a prefab fireplace will require a unit with a very small firebox. Before choosing a model, take stock of your existing fireplace.
Some of these are as follows:. Pay attention to the stove manuals recommended clearances. A professional inspection by a chimney sweep or other fireplace pro is often the best way of answering these questions in a complete manner. If you are uncertain about the fit of the insert or freestanding stove, make a cardboard mockup to assure a good fit. Once you have dimensions to work with, you can go about the process of choosing an insert — big or small?
All the way back in the fireplace, or out on the hearth? Some of these questions relate to style and others to performance. Here are some links to help you make those various decisions:. Whichever insert you choose, be sure to keep in mind that you have to have room to work with the smoke outlet. This means if you are buying a freestanding stove to sit in front of the fireplace, the rear flue outlet must be lower than the fireplace opening.
If your unit is top vented and will slip back into the fireplace, it is always nice to have a couple inches of room between the insert or freestanding stove and the fireplace opening.
Some inserts can be installed by setting the pipe into position, sliding the unit back in, and then pulling the pipe into the flue collar from inside the stove. View attachment Buy online and save. We guarantee customer support that will not end until you are satisfied with your installation. Visit our complete site today. Arrange to have this done prior to installation. Skip to content. Top Spotlight. How to Max Out Value To maximize your enjoyment -- and value -- put a fireplace where you'll get the most use from it: the family room, great room, or kitchen.
This article will simplify the fireplace installation process and guide you through every aspect. Whether you ultimately decide to hire a contractor to install your fireplace or do it yourself, take full advantage of our free fireplace installation checklists to ensure you get the job done right. Regardless of the fuel type, there are common design aspects of all factory-built fireplaces that must be taken into consideration when planning a DIY installation.
Factory-built fireplaces are a prefabricated sheet metal system that relies on clearances to combustibles to operate safely. The modular design offers a cost-effective alternative to a traditional site-built masonry fireplace. Wood, gas, and electric units will all utilize an inner firebox chamber that is suspended by means of metal supports from an outer fireplace jacket.
The air space between the inner and outer jackets, and the ability for the unit to dissipate heat is what allows a prefabricated fireplace to be installed into a combustible enclosure framed from commonly available dimensional lumber. As you may have surmised, the advertised width of a wood or gas fireplace will almost always be in reference to the physical opening of the inner firebox chamber. The need for the air space and outer fireplace jacket means that additional space will be needed to fit the appliance into your intended location.
For instance, a wood burning fireplace with an advertised 36 inch wide viewing area may have a framing dimension of 40 inches wide overall. Because heat naturally rises, additional space above the fireplace is also required.
Most fireboxes use external metal standoffs to ensure proper spacing is maintained. As with any installation of a home appliance, a detailed instruction manual will be provided that covers many pertinent construction details.
This will include the framing dimensions, venting requirements, clearances to combustibles, and other preparations needed prior to installation. It's very important for the homeowner to read and understand these instructions to ensure safe and successful operation. Before making a fireplace purchase, it is recommended to contact the NFI certified techs at eFireplaceStore to discuss your expectations from your fireplace purpose. A gas fireplace will be the most complex type of installation.
Before making a fireplace purchase, it's recommended to contact the NFI certified techs at eFireplaceStore. The sheer number of designs and different venting types can be a bit overwhelming at first, but narrowing the selection down to a unit that will fit your requirements can typically be accomplished in a single phone call.
In the long run, making that call will greatly help with your gas fireplace installation. It is important to know the overall width, depth, and height of the intended installation area, as well as the overall ceiling and roof height. Most gas fireplaces will list the approved venting components in the instruction manual, and it's crucial that only those components be used.
Those venting components are specifically tested and approved by a major listing agency to ensure safe fireplace operation. A tech will be able to assist you in putting together the needed list of components. It must also be determined how a gas line and electrical service if needed, will be routed to the installation location.
Collecting quotes from reputable local businesses for this initial work will leave you in a much better position to determine the overall cost and timeline of the project. Once this preliminary work has been completed the installation itself can commence. Once the projection has been established, the unit can be pushed into the framed opening and nailed or screwed into position.
Although the framing of the fireplace opening can begin before the appliance itself has shipped to you, we highly recommend having the appliance on-site to check against before commencing the installation.
Follow the framing instructions supplied with the unit to build a framed opening that meets the sizing requirements specified by the manufacturer. Common 2 x 4-dimensional lumber and a 2 x 8 or 2 x 10 header is usually used.
Most manufacturers allow the fireplace to sit directly on a combustible floor. A combustible platform can also be built at this time to raise the unit within the wall opening if you wish.
Pay close attention to any side clearances or overhead ceiling clearances outlined by the manufacturer. It's at this time that the consideration for finishing material thickness should also be made.
Whatever the thickness of the material, you must ensure the unit projects forward from the framed opening enough to compensate for the thickness of the finishing material if you are looking for a flush installation. This will ensure that the tile will be relatively flush with the face of the unit when finishing is completed. Some manufacturers provide nailing tabs that will be at different depths on the appliance to help compensate for the setback you need.
If the tabs don't provide enough projection, the unit may need to be shimmed as you install it. Check to make sure the unit is plumb and level before nailing it into position. Cedar shims can be used to make adjustments if needed. Other designs use similar caps or lids for the unused flue collar, while a few designs are a dedicated top or rear vent configuration.
The installation of the venting components should come next. Almost all gas vent pipes will use a twist lock attachment method. Depending on how you are venting the appliance, you may need to uncover or rotate the venting collar on the appliance for your application. For instance, Superior direct vent gas appliances will have the vertical flue collar covered by a plate and the back collar covered by a cap.
If you are venting the appliance vertically, you'll need to remove the plate and discard the insulation and pipe plug within. If venting horizontally, the rear cap would need to be removed in the same fashion. Once the vent collar has been configured properly, the first piece of pipe can be installed. Before attaching to the appliance, a bead of a direct vent appliance sealant should be applied to the inner pipe wall. Ensure that the dimples on each pipe align with the channels on the flue collar, and firmly twist the pipe clockwise until it ceases to rotate.
Double-check the connection by pulling upward on the pipe. If any dimple pulls loose, the connection was not correctly made and should be attempted again.
The screws should only be allowed to penetrate the outer wall of the pipe. Continue your installation with each section of vent pipe , repeating the twist, check, and screw method for the entirety of the run. Check the pipe run to ensure that you are maintaining the minimum required clearances to combustibles at all times.
It's recommended to secure the pipe run every 5 feet by wrapping the pipe with perforated HVAC strapping and securing the strapping to adjacent studs. This will limit the amount of lateral motion in the pipe run.
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